Hi again, I%26#39;ll try to make this the last installment. This bit involves the journey from Koh Phangan to Khao Sok National Park then back to Bangkok.
For those who haven%26#39;t read part 3 we%26#39;d been staying at Haad Khom on the north coast at Coconut Beach resort. The journey back to the port was amusing. We%26#39;d planned to get a lift into town from the owner but it turned out that they are not licenced to carry passengers and the police were on the island checking taxis, but the next resort down would be able to take us. So a group of us piled into their pickup and started our journey. We were stopped along the way by some guys in a songthaw and there followed a discussion between them and our driver during which I heard the words %26#39;bpen bpai mai dai%26#39; (impossible) mentioned a few times. We were then told we would have to change vehicles because of police road blocks. The driver told us that if we got stopped by the police we were to say we%26#39;d come from Haad Salat and not Haad Khom or he would get into trouble. I even looked up a resort in the book that we could say we%26#39;d been staying at just in case. Off we went again and as we neared town the driver suddenly turned off the road down a dirt track, through some trees and emerged at the taxi stop at the port, thus avoiding the road block he%26#39;d spotted.
We found a travel office on the corner of the road leading from the dock into town where we discovered we could book a combined ferry and bus ticket all the way through to Khao Sok for 500 baht each. The ferry left at 12.30 pm and we%26#39;d get to Khao Sok about 7 pm, so they said! The bus would pick us up at the port so we wouldn%26#39;t have to worry about finding our way into Surat Thani and locating the bus station. The guy let us leave our bags in the office as we had about 1/2 hour to kill before the ferry left.
There%26#39;s a booth at the port where you check in and get given a sticker to wear - different colours for different destinations. When we boarded the ferry our bags were thrown on a big pile on the stern which seemed to grow alarmingly high. The mound was then covered with a tarp. This ferry stopped at Samui. We were sitting downstairs and they put a film on for the next part of the trip. Snacks are available and there are hole in the floor type loos.
We arrived at a different port to the one we%26#39;d left from. I assume this was Surat Thani port as we%26#39;d travelled up a river, past a village on stilts and some rusting hulks on the river bank. By this time they were playing a music video and I had a sudden flashback to the scene in Apocalypse Now where they%26#39;re going up the river on the gunboat. We docked and after a spell of organised chaos we retrieved our bags and had to go to another booth to check-in again where we were given another sticker that had %26#39;Sok%26#39; on it. There was food available and tables and chairs to sit at undercover while waiting for the buses to turn up. Eventually someone called out Khao Sok and 5 of us climbed into a songthaw. I had visions of several hours in the back of this thing but it was simply taking us to a pick-up point in town where we met up with other travellers and then got into 2 aircon minibuses for the journey to the park.
We%26#39;d pre-booked our accom at Our Jungle House. We%26#39;d been told that some drivers won%26#39;t drop you off at that resort but if there was a problem all we had to do was phone and they%26#39;d come for us. As it turned out our driver sometimes works for %26#39;Mr Klaus%26#39; so there wasn%26#39;t a problem. We didn%26#39;t get there till nearly 8.30 pm and last orders for food are at that time so we had some food and booked a couple of trips before going to our hut. We noticed a couple of other families there with young children which was nice.
Wow, the jungle at night is amazing. The noise is almost deafening. Klaus, who owns the place, is very nice and a mine of information. He has some books in the restaurante that you can look at and there is an interesting one about the park that you can buy. They have a rule about no food in the huts to avoid creepy crawlies etc being attracted to the rooms, but you can keep it in their fridge. Valuables can be kept in the safe at reception (they wrap them in loads of clingfilm and tape). We were given torches and guided to Mango House, a teak hut on stilts with a balcony, double, single bed, mozie nets, shower room (no hot water), and 24hr electricity (rather dull like most places). There are no windows as such, just wooden shutters that can be propped open with a stick attached to a bit of string. Talk about a loo with a view!! We saw our first example of jungle wildlife on our son%26#39;s mozie net - a bright green praying mantis about 15 cm long - fantastic. By the time I%26#39;d located my camera it had gone. There were also a couple of lizards up in the rafters, and we found a snake skin hanging from the balcony rafters.
Next morning we had breakfast - service can be a bit erratic - and had a wander round the site. A monkey of some kind crashed through trees ahead of us. We%26#39;d discovered we were next to a river when we arrived, but as it was dark we couldn%26#39;t see the limestone cliffs on the opposite bank that make it a wonderful setting. In the afternoon we went tubing with another family and had a fantastic time floating down the river. We went past our hut and ended up at another resort where two tame gibbons kept us amused. They kept putting out their arms to be cuddled by the children (though one did give the little girl a bit of a nip).
That night we went on a night safari (take a torch). It turned out to be just the 3 of us and a guide who took us into the park (the accom is on the edge of the park). At the visitors centre you sign a form giving time of entry etc and pay 200 baht for adults and 100 for children. You have to sign out as well and they like you to note the animals you%26#39;ve seen.
Our guide didn%26#39;t speak much English but did manage to find some porcupine, a large frog which he caught for us to get a closer look at, and what sounded like a %26#39;mooglier%26#39; which I later deciphered to mean %26#39;mouse deer%26#39;, and there was a solitary fire fly. Aparently they%26#39;d seen a python the previous night. We%26#39;d taken hiking boots and long trousers but although it was a bit boggy in places we were walking on proper paths and not hacking our way through the jungle, so we could have got away with sandals. It chucked it down with rain too. Just as well that happened after we%26#39;d left or the trip would have been called off. It%26#39;s quite eerie, especially if you look back into the pitch black and can hear things rustling in the bushes behind you.
Next day was spent at the lake. 10 of us plus 2 guides. 1 hr by minibus to get there then another hour or so in a long tail boat to get to the floating raft houses for lunch. Our boat broke down and we had to transfer in the middle of the lake to another one - great fun. The scenery is spectacular - sort of Lord of the Rings(ish), with hugh limestone islands dotted across the lake and the tops of trees sticking out of the water. Lunch was good but the raft houses have definitely seen better days. The loos are a steepish climb up a cliff path and there weren%26#39;t any lights. After lunch we set off on a trek. We%26#39;d been advised to wear waterproof sandals and shorts (easier to see the leeches!). The paths were very slippery and muddy so don%26#39;t wear anything decent as you%26#39;ll get covered in mud (in the rainy season anyway). We waded across rivers, climbed over tree trunks, passed the place where you can camp out in the dry season, etc. and eventually came to the cave. As it looked like rain it was decided that it would be too dangerous to go all the way through the cave so we trekked around to the other side, went in about half way then came out again.
The cave is amazing but not for the faint hearted. It involves walking along a river bed, sometimes thigh deep, that is rather uneven and slippery. Perhaps I should have taken a walking pole. If I was doing it again I%26#39;d take a headband torch rather than the cheap handheld one we were able to buy on the way to the lake. There are bats on the ceiling and in places the ground moves - that%26#39;s the crickets; oh and then there are the spiders - black, green eyes and as big as your hand!! - but they don%26#39;t move much, and finally there was a python slithering along trying to get away from our torch light. The only problem is that you might be like me and worry about hanging on to the cave wall for support - just in case there%26#39;s something big and black lurking!!! More trekking back to the boat (removing leeches on the way) then to the raft houses to change/shower/swim, then back across the lake. By this time it was dark - and the boat broke down again and we started drifting backwards. But we got back ok and the poor kitchen staff had had to stay late as we didn%26#39;t get back till gone 9 pm.
And so ended our trip to Khao Sok. We left early next morning in a taxi we%26#39;d booked through Klaus. This was a bit expensive at 1900 baht and we could have got one for about 1000 baht if we%26#39;d booked it through the minibus company in Surat Thani, but we had to catch a plane and didn%26#39;t want to risk them not turning up on time.
We flew back from Surat Thani to Bangkok for our last 2 nights (no problems except an hours delay with the flight). I%26#39;d tried phoning Ethiad to confirm our return flight to the UK but hadn%26#39;t been able to get through, so we went to the office at Bankok airport when we arrived and did it there. Then we retrieved the case from left luggage and took a cab into town to collect the case we%26#39;d left at the station, after which we were going to take another cab to the hotel, but we hit the jackpot with the taxi driver. He spoke excellent English and took us to the station, sweet talked the policeman into letting us park in a no-parking place while Dave got the case, then took us to the Elegance Suite hotel in Silom. On the way he discovered we were leaving in 2 days so arranged to pick us up from our hotel at 6 am to take us to the airport. I%26#39;ve got his emai address if anyone wants it. He also does trips to Kanchanaburi, Ayyutaya etc.
The Elegance Suite turned out to be in a good location; about 5 mins walk from the skytrain and Taksin Bridge pier. It%26#39;s at the end of a soi with food stalls down one side. There%26#39;s a nice rooftop pool that we didn%26#39;t get to use until the last evening when we took a dip in the dark - it was a bit too chilly! We%26#39;d booked a triple suite but they hadn%26#39;t put the extra bed or towels etc in when we arrived, but that was soon remedied. Josh liked it as the bed was put in the lounge area as the bedroom was too small so he could lie there with the telly on. Goodness knows what the cleaner thought of our slightly smelly jungle clothes that we hung over the shower rail in a vain attempt to get them dry before flying home. Don%26#39;t expect anything to be dry in the jungle. Yes there was a laundry service but it was ridiculously expensive and although I did spot a laundry in the lane outside the hotel, it was too late by then to get the stuff done in time.
This hotel was the only place we came across a cockroach in the room (they only like clean places I%26#39;m told - but I don%26#39;t like them!).
On our last day, after a good breakfast, we took an express water taxi up to the Grand Palace (13 baht each - 12 stops). It%26#39;s a great way to get there avoiding all the traffic. If there%26#39;s only one place that you can get to in Bangkok I think this would have to be it. It%26#39;s like something out of fairy land - amazing gaudy colours and wierd trees; not to mention the Emerald Buddha Temple which is in the same complex. You won%26#39;t get in if you%26#39;re not properly dressed, but you can hire trousers, tops etc there so it%26#39;s not too much hassle.
When we%26#39;d had enough culture (young children might get a bit bored if you stay too long) we grabbed a tuktuk and headed for the craziness of Khao San Road and had lunch in a cafe while some gruesome horror film played on the tv. Then we hit the stalls for some shopping that I later regretted as we went to the night market down by Lumpini Park and found the same things (and nicer things) cheaper. We ate at the food stalls at the market - 3 khao phat with prawn wrapped in an omellet, 2 lemonades and a coke - and all for 150 baht (just over 拢2)!!
Well folks, that%26#39;s the end of this mammoth trip report - hope I haven%26#39;t bored you as I do rattle on a bit. Our taxi driver, Charlie, turned up at 6 am as promised and we were at the airport and checked in by 6.45 am. It had been too early for breakfast at the hotel and we made the mistake of going through to the departure lounge where we only found some rather ghastly fast food on offer. Had we of known we would have gone to the cafe in the domestic terminal. Of course now the new airport is open perhaps the facilities are better.
For those of you still to go, have a fantastic time. We did and it won%26#39;t be the last, though I know it will be a few years before we%26#39;ll be able to go again. As before, if you have any questions I%26#39;ll do my best to answer them.
Chris
Trip report (somewhat belated!!!) - part 4
Hi Chris
Your trip report was wonderful... almost the same trip that Trent and I are doing in less than 3 weeks! A couple of questions:
What ferry did you use to go to KPN? The travel agent you used for the trip to Khao Sok.. did you think they were worth using?
Also I would love to have the email address of the driver you used in Bangkok!!
Not sure if I have given it to you but my blog while we are away is at www.travelblog.org/bloggers/reet if you would like to have a look and see what we get up to! You can subscribe so it automatically sends you a link each time we post!
Thanks for all your help! I appreciate it!
Emjay xx
Trip report (somewhat belated!!!) - part 4
Loved you trip reports Chris,
they were a VERY interesting read. I loved all the detail you added!
Thanks
Nicky
Excellent stuff skiffle - loved reading that. The K.P.G. taxi/police thing really brought a smile to my face, as I understand how things are there as I have been visiting friends there periodically for the last 20 years (since I was a nipper you understand!). Well done again!
B.Gas
Hi emjay,Nicky,B.Gas
Glad you like the report. Had a bit of a heart attack when I saw how long it was!! Nice to know you stayed awake long enough to read it. LOL.
emjay - I%26#39;ve been hunting round in the hope of finding the ferry tickets amongst the piles of papers I%26#39;ve got lying around but couldn%26#39;t find them. I can%26#39;t remember the ferry co. going to the island but I think the return one was Songserm express boat. I have a picture of it but a post in the water obscurs the name. However it was a white boat and had %26#39;Joint Ticket%26#39; in big black letters painted along the side.
As for the travel agent, we did it for the convenience. I think the minibus company works with particular resorts as when we got to the pickup point they were going round asking people if they had accom. and then signed them up if they hadn%26#39;t . It seemed like quite a few hadn%26#39;t booked in advance. The only problem you might have is the driver being reluctant to take you to your resort if it%26#39;s not one of theirs. I phoned OJH from the port and that%26#39;s when Klaus told me to phone again if there was a problem so he could come and get us.
The taxi driver in Bangkok is Chaiyut Wangtaweewong (don%26#39;t you just love the surnames!) - otherwise known as %26#39;Charlie%26#39;. His email addy is chaiyut_w@hotmail.com (note the underscore, not hyphen). If you use him remember us to him - we%26#39;re the ones from Cornwall - and I%26#39;ve got red hair (not many of us in Thailand) so he might remember that. We sent him an email when we got back and had a nice reply from him.
Thanks for the blog addy. We shall certainly follow your journey with interest. We%26#39;re particularly interested in what the weather is like in Khao Sok in December as it would be nice to go there at a different time of year. I bet you%26#39;re getting really excited now. I%26#39;m sure your son will love it. Do try to learn a few words of the lingo if you can - it really is appreciated. 13 yr old boys tend to find the idea of being able to say %26#39;Khrap%26#39; all the time, without being told to watch their mouth, quite amusing. Just remember us girls say %26#39;ka%26#39; instead.
Have fun
Chris
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